August is here and gardening is far from the
minds of
most folks. An ice cold lemonade and deep shade to beat the heat is what most
gardening calendars call for. However, fall is right around the corner and here are a few
tips to get you through the scorching days of August and into the "second spring'' of the
south - fall.
WATER
August is typically one of the driest months of the year in East
Texas. Even if does rain, chances are it isn't enough to supply the needs of your lawn
and garden. Use
rain gauge to actually measure how much rain you're receiving. Lawns and shrubs
need about an inch of water per week in the summer time. Often the showers may
seem like they are dumping a lot of water, but they may be too brief to penetrate the
ground more than an inch. Make the best use of water by giving plants a thorough
soaking as infrequently as the weather and your soils will allow.
Many plants will signal their need for water: turfgrass lies flat after being walked on,
and many plants loose their shine and droop a little. Unfortunately, most trees do not
readily show drought stress, yet are negatively impacted by prolonged droughts, and
the effects can carry over to the next few years. Weakened trees become more
susceptible to other stresses and diseases, and may succumb after a series of
droughts.
When watering lawns during hot weather, do it early in the morning. Otherwise, much
of the water will evaporate from the grass before the plants get to use it. To further
avoid excess evaporation, use a sprinkler that produces large drops of water instead of
a fine mist.
Check the thickness of mulch around your shrubs, flowers and newly planted trees.
Unmulched soils can reach more than 100 degrees, hot enough to kill roots. Mulched
soils can be three to 10 degrees cooler even several inches deep. Besides reducing
soil temperature, mulches also conserve water by reducing evaporation, often up to 65
percent. In one test, pine needles gave the greatest reduction in soil evaporation. Of
course, mulch reduces weeds which also compete for water.
Here are some mulching materials and suggested depth for each: shredded bark
(3-4"), wood chips (3-4"), bark chunks (4-6"), chipper debris (3-4"), sawdust, wood
shavings (1-3" - use only aged, weathered materia), pine needles (2-3"), lawn clippings
(1" - dry clippings before use), leaves and leaf mold (2-4"), partially decomposed
compost (2-4").
PESTS
Chinch bugs are a major lawn pest of St. Augustine in the
summer. If
patches in the lawn look dry, like it needs water, and you are certain, after testing the
soil, that is getting sufficient water, then suspect Chinch bugs. Be sure your sprinkler is
doing a proper job. Low water pressure may result erratic coverage or "hot spots" in the
yard that need supplemental water. Check with a shovel and your fingers to determine
soil moisture levels.
August is also the month to begin checking for the presence of white grubworms. Not
every lawn will need grub worm control. As a matter of fact, probably only a small
portion of lawns are bothered by these pests. Lawns which have been heavily damaged
in the past by these root-eating, soil-dwelling white grubs are prime targets to be
attacked again. White grub damage is characterized by a very loosely rooted turf which
can be very easily pulled up. If grubs are suspected, check the soil under affected
grass for the small, white grubs. Now through mid-August is the time to apply
insecticides to control white grubs if you find them. Be sure to thoroughly water the
insecticide into the soil immediately after application.
Azalea lace bugs are a major pest of azaleas, and increase rapidly in the summer time.
Affected azalea leaves look like they are stipples until they are almost white. A quick
look on the underside of leaves will reveal black, varnish-like spots which is a sure sign
of azalea lace bugs. Spray with an insecticide, making sure the spray contacts
underneath the leaves where the lace bugs are feeding.
Use pesticides with caution and only as needed. Follow all label directions and
never increase the rate. Do not rinse sprayers or dispose of excess spray in the
drain, storm sewer or other place where runoff can contaminate our water
system.
VEGETABLES:
Starting in mid August plant broccoli plants, Brussel sprouts,
cabbage plants, Chinese cabbage, carrots, cauliflower plants, Swiss chard, collards,
kale, English peas, Irish potatoes, and summer squash.
Set out tomato transplants (if you can find them) right away for a fall harvest. Look for
an early maturing variety (65 to 75 days). Remember that our average first freeze is
mid-November and that tomato maturity slows down as the days get cool and cloudy.
Peppers and tomatoes planted earlier this year will not set fruit during the heat of
summer, even though they may still be flowering. If the plants remain healthy, they will
set fruit again once temperatures stay below 90 degrees. Sidedress established,
healthy plants with fertilizer and keep watered to encourage new growth.
An eggplant is ready to harvest when the fruit is fully colored and has achieved the
mature size for the variety. Seed should be white, and the tissue firm. If the seeds are
brown and hard, or the skin has become dull rather than shiny, the fruit is past eating
quality, so harvest the next fruit sooner.
Remove old plants that have stopped producing to eliminate shelters for insects and
disease organisms.
ODDS AND ENDS
Order your spring-flowering bulbs now. A good guideline to use is
'biggest is best' in regard to bulb size. Be careful about so- called "bargain" bulbs as
they may be small or of inferior quality.
Potted plants outdoors may need watering daily to prevent wilting. Such frequent
watering will leach out nutrients, so be sure to regularly fertilize potted plants with a
water-soluble fertilizer.
Finish planting lawns this month to give the new grass opportunity to become
established before cold weather stops growth. Wait to fertilize established lawns
until September.
A late-summer pruning of rosebushes can be beneficial. Prune out dead canes and any
weak, brushy growth. Cut back tall, vigorous bushes to about 30 inches. After pruning,
apply fertilizer, and water thoroughly. If a preventive disease-control program has been
maintained, your rose bushes should be ready to provide an excellent crop of flowers
this October.
It is not too late to set out another planting of many warm-season annuals, such as
marigolds, zinnias, and periwinkles. They will require extra attention for the first few
weeks, but should provide you with color during late September, October, and
November.
Sow seeds of snapdragons, dianthus, pansies, calendulas, and other cool-season
flowers in flats, or in well-prepared areas of the garden, for planting outside during
mid-to-late fall.
Plant bluebonnet and other spring wildflowers. They must germinate in late summer or
early fall, develop good root systems, and be ready to grow in spring when the weather
warms. Plant seed in well-prepared soil, one-half inch deep, and water thoroughly.
Picking flowers frequently encourages most annuals and perennials to flower even
more abundantly.
The information given herein is for educational purposes only. References to commercial products or trade names is made with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by Texas Cooperative Extension personnel is implied.
Keith Hansen is Smith County Horticulturist with Texas Cooperative Extension. His web page is http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/county/smith. Educational programs of Texas Cooperative Extension are open to all individuals without regard to race, color, sex, disability, religion, age or national origin.
